Questions for Wad Wizard Choke Tubes

FAQ's of Walker's Wad Wizard® Choke Tube System

Q. What is the difference between the Wad Wizard Tubes and the SRM Terror Tubes?

A. The Wad Wizard is a "wad retarding device" and can handle any type of shot and any size of shot. The Wad Wizard produces a shorter shot string with all loads, at all ranges for startling "slap-down" killing power. Because the stringing effect is somewhat taken out of the picture, you will have more shot on target at once. Also, this tube produces dense, evenly distributed patterns at most ranges. The performance of the Wad Wizard may be varied for different ranges and uses by choice of the shot shell used. By varying the shot type, shot size, shell velocity, to name a few, this tube can be used for any type of hunting / shooting you care to do with your 10, 12 or 20 gauge shotgun.

The SRM Terror tubes are conventional constriction chokes and were originally developed by SRM Performance Products to shoot consistently dense core-patterns and tight long-range patterns with the high velocity "fast steel" shells and hand-loads. Like the Wad Wizard, they are expertly made from a special high strength alloy steel which cannot be damaged by tightly radically-constricting hard pellet materials, such as steel, tungsten-iron and HeviShot™.

Q. What is the difference between the Supreme and SWAT12® tube?

A. The SWAT12 tube is considered a short to medium-range tube (20 - 40 yards) and the Supreme tube is considered medium to long-range (25 and beyond!). This is achieved through placement of the stud ring on the inside of the tube. The Supreme tube will extend from the muzzle approximately 1 1/2", while the SWAT12 tube will extend about 3/8". The SWAT12 pattern will open up faster than the Supreme tube, which will hold a nice, tight pattern out to the longer distances.

Q. How do you really know that your choke shortens the shot string? You won't be able to see it on paper. Is it something that is kind of a proven/known fact or is it a claim made by the manufacturers?

A. Shot-string lengths have been measurable and indeed have been rather precisely measured since at least the 1920's, and by much more sophisticated methods than towing a target behind a moving vehicle, a la Bob Brister. The pattern length test results are not of a nature that they are easily illustrated on paper. Flat 2-dimensional patterns on flat targets are very easily illustrated, but leave out the important 3rd dimension factor.

A well-made tight radial constriction tube (with the right load) will throw very tight pattern "centers" but in doing so will necessarily lengthen the shot string, which for many types of shooting is very desirable. I use them often. One example of use is that they can be shot like rifles in the right hands and the dense centers will carry out further than sportsmen and gentlemen should be shooting at game in the first place. They're just the ticket for "way out" snows, as only one example.

By comparison, wad-retarding chokes are not designed to, and do not generally, produce ultra-tight pattern centers. They ideally produce evenly-distributed 2-dimensional patterns. The 2-dimensional percentage of shot striking in a 30" circle can be varied for any given target distance by varying the load used, for the 20 yard decoy shots or 40+ yarders. Because wad-retarders do not radially constrict (i.e. "squeeze") the shot charge as it passes down the bore, they also can and do produce unseen results: significantly shorter shot strings and thus "denser" 3-dimensional patterns that put more shot simultaneously on- target, to produce what some have called "slap-down killing power". This result is easily proven by shooting game/clays with such a tube and noticing the difference.

Q. How does the wad affect the shot? Does it blow through the shot somehow after it leaves the muzzle?

A. No, a modern plastic wad does not "blow through" the shot charge. Today's plastic wads are very light in weight and (by law of physics) cannot independently fly ahead of the heavy metal shot charge to disrupt it once it's out of the muzzle and separated from the metal shot. Anyone who claims otherwise (as some do) is very uninformed. The modern plastic shotgun wads generally serve 2 major purposes: they are designed to be a gas seal in the bore and to hold/encase the shot charge and protect the shot from rubbing against and being deformed by the gun's bore (and with hard iron/steel/tungsten shot, from rubbing the shot against the bore and scratching up the bore). These wads are much easier to load, very cheap and produce more reliable and consistent results than do the previous-tech paper card, fiber, etc. wads.

But, with conventional constriction "chokes" (i.e., fixed and interchangeable tube chokes, which we here refer to collectively as "funnel chokes" because of the way they look and act), the shot charge does emerge from them at the muzzle on it's way to the target while still largely encased in the shot cup, after being "crunched" by passing through the constricted "funnel" portion at the muzzle. The gas emerges and can mix with the shot charge.

Our tubes work by (1) slightly grabbing onto the plastic wad gas seal area, (2) not "crunching" down on the shot charge when it does so to avoid which deforming the wad and elongating the shot strings (3) then separating the heavy shot charge from the much lighter wad (4) while at the same time the heavier shot charge emerges from the bore and is outdistancing the wad, flying out ahead of it, while (5) at the same time keeping the gas sealed in the gun long enough so that it does not emerge soon enough to disrupt the shot and "blow" the pattern. That's it in a nutshell. And, oh yeah--it's the magic, too!!!

Q. Why is there no data on 3" Buckshot. Most everyone who must hunt with Buckshot, shoot 3" Magnums.

A. Actually, there is one 3" buckshot pattern shown on our web site with 12 gauge 000 buckshot- supremebuckshotpatterns.htm We don't illustrate 3" or 3 1/2" Buckshot loads because in 12 gauge the 2 3/4" 9-pellet "00"load is very deadly way out beyond 40 yards on deer, etc. and the Wad Wizard himself does not consider blasting away at such distances "sporting with a shotgun". We have one satisfied customer in South Carolina who reports taking them every season out to 75 to 80 yards but we don't recommend use at such distances due to the lower velocities and the "risk factor" from having much wider patterns and decreased ability to know where they will all hit. A single 00 pellet is very lethal out way beyond 100 yards but shoot 'em close, most pellets from the shell will hit if your aim is good, and they will drop. Wad wizards do throw great patterns with the 3 and 3 1/2" Buckshot loadings, however, longer shells and more Buckshot are just plain overkill for most situations.

Q. I'm shooting Federal Premium 4 Buck 3" magnum buckshot (41 pellets) through a Rem. 1187 with a factory Rem. Turkey Super-full (.665 - .062 constriction) tube. I'm getting a pattern at 50 yards that will lace a coyote from nose to rump. Can your tubes improve on that with what I'm using? I saw mention made of 12" groups at 50 yards, but I don't see one displayed in your pattern samples, nor any information about load, etc. I also don't see any patterns with #4 Buck, which in the 41 pellet size is a favorite of coyote hunters who use shotguns (with 00 Buck and BB fighting for 2nd place). I'd really like to know about my specific load, since your FAQ page shows sometimes the short tubes pattern tighter than the long tubes with some loads.

A. The Wadwizard will indeed produce exceptional patterns with #4 buckshot--generally at least as good or better than anything else on the market. I'm sorry that we don't illustrate a "typical" pattern for you. Try a Wad Wizard (I'd go with the longer "Supreme") and see how it does in your gun; if it doesn't do what you want, send it back for a refund.

The 12 gauge 3" 41-pellet #4 buckshot load is a good one. The #4 buck pellet is small enough (.24") that it can produce very tight patterns through tight conventional tubes. It was one of my favorite loads through my 3" A-5 Browning Magnum before the advent of removable choke tubes. The larger buckshot sizes are better off with a more open choke. The #4 buck is used (as w/#2 birdshot) because there are many more pellets in the shell, and those sizes therefore increase the probability of a hit, or of multiple hits, on a coyote. All things being equal, the larger pellet is a better killer at any range that you can expect to hit the animal.

However, the Wad Wizard patterns are so good and tight with the much more powerful #1 buck, #0 buck, #00 buck and #000 buck pellets at 50 yards and beyond, that you might well want try some of these larger balls on the coyotes. It is easier on the hides, too!

Q. I'm Going to the coast this week for diver hunting at Pamlico Sound, not sure how far our shots will be? I patterned my gun with the SWAT12™ and a stock modified Benelli M1, both tubes patterned very similar with fasteel and hevishot! I patterned at 30-40yards, out past 40 the pattern broke up a bit! Most of my hunting is over decoys! Thanks for any suggestions on loads, etc..

A. For Pamlico divers, the range of engagement can and will vary depending on a multitude of factors. If you use a fast steel, use at least a #3 regular velocity: nothing smaller than #2 ; Hevishot or other non-toxic, go with #4 and smaller, depending on the shot metal, etc. SWAT12™ tubes are recommended as a 15 to 35-yard-max tubes--but useful range can be stretched, depending on the load and game.

The major "performance difference" of the Wad Wizard SWAT12 from your stock "modified" Benelli tube (for the purposes only of the facts you present) is that the Wad Wizard's patterns are 3-dimensionally "denser". This difference does not show up on a flat (2 dimensional) pattern board--it does however show up very clearly when you are shooting at ducks in the real world (3-dimensional) --they DROP slap-down dead if you do your part. They come with a 30-day money back total satisfaction guarantee, no questions asked. Thus the slogan: "Wad Wizard proves itself in the field".

Q. What research has been done as to barrel length effecting pattern and range on shotguns? Recently I have been told that the newer powders burn much faster which eliminates the need for a longer barrel.

A. With the "usual" modern wads and powders, maximum efficiency is obtained with 18". "Pattern" and "Range" are determined on the other hand, by the "choke", i.e., how well the shot charge stays together as it proceeds down range. A "wide" choke used to shoot quail at 15 - 20 yards will not have the "pattern" and "range" of a waterfowl choke used to shoot geese at 70 yards; but then the goose choke would not have the "pattern" and "range" necessary for the quail, either. Shot pellets from an 18" barrel hit as hard at any given distance as do pellets from a 30". The trick is to hit the target with as many pellets as possible at any given range. "Barrel Length" is more related to weight, balance, recoil and ease of aiming, swing and follow through smoothness.

Q. Is there any such thing as 20-gauge shot shells in 00 buck? I'm curious about the use of such in a 20-gauge pump.

A. While it is indeed possible to load 00 buck into a 2 3/4" or 3" 20 gauge shotgun shell with the proper components, it is not an efficient way to deliver maximum killing energy to the target for this gauge, and it just isn't worth the trouble. This is because 20 gauge has a bore of about .615", 00 Buckshot is about .33" in diameter, so they will not "stack" evenly into "tiers" in the shell and in a shot cup (and therefore don't pattern well), and you can't fit enough 00 into the shell to make for an effective load. Most factory 20 gauge buckshot shells are loaded with either #2 (about .27") or #3 buckshot (about .25").

While 00 is an awesome and deadly shot size in a 10 or 12 gauge, don't sell the smaller sizes of buckshot "short". They, too are very awesome in performance and killing power. In our company's low-recoiling Power20™ loads, we use 18 (7/8 oz) #4 (that's .24" in diameter) nickel-plated buckshot, most all of which will consistently hit in the kill zone-black of a silhouette target at 25 yards when used with our Wad Wizard tubes.

Our Wad Wizard® 20 gauge buckshot shells with #4 buckshot actually deliver more killing power on target than most shotguns with conventional 12 gauge #00 buckshot loads, because most (if not 100%) of the #4 buck pellets will hit the target with our loads and tubes. The up to 18 simultaneous multiple hits with these big lead #4 buckshot balls deliver a combined effect greater than the sum total of each #4 buckshot pellet's individual energy; and, our 20's can deliver greater energy on a target than does a load of #00 buckshot out of a 12 gauge which misses the target with most of its load's pellets.

Q. I have been using Kent Fast Steel 3" 1 3/8 #3 and been very happy. Kent advertises a 3 1/2" 1 3/8 #3 at 1500 fps. What would you expect the same shot charge to do with an extra 200 fps. Does it give more killing power? I rarely shoot past 40 yards. Would the pattern density change?

A. It's the law (of physics)!!! .....And, not a simple question. Practical "killing" energy can be increased by (1) increasing the mass of the projectile, by (2) increasing the velocity, or (3) both. Both speeds (1300 fps and 1500 fps) of the same diameter of round steel pellets are going to be going about the same velocity at 60 yards, anyway.There are a lot of variables, but............in general...........Basic rule of thumb: REMEMBER, you can't kill 'em if you can't hit 'em. Pattern the 3 1/2" Fast Steel in your gun. If it throws a reliable killing pattern for the size of game you hunt (you don't say swans, cranes, big or little geese or ducks) then use it with confidence, if you want. A #3 steel pellet at 200 fps faster than another #3 steel pellet will definitely hit harder (or carry more potential penetrating-killing energy) within the 40 yards which you specify. However, if the 3 1/2" patterns are poor and spotty for you, I'd definitely stay with the proven effective pattern coverage of the 3" shells over more speed and poorer coverage. If you need more killing power with regular velocity shells, then just go up to #1 or BBs (or larger), so long as you can cover the target adequately to insure enough hits for a clean kill. That's one of the biggest advantages of the Wad Wizard®: you can use the BIG stuff and still get great patterns. A load of T's through a Wad Wizard® hitting a big goose is a real eye-opener.

Q. I had a chance to compare the Wad Wizard against the "PM", so far the Wad Wizard seems to be patterning better. One thing I noticed about the Wad Wizard is it does not screw in flush with the top of the barrel. It bottoms out about 1/6 in. before the top. Is this a correct fit?

A. Because these tubes seat on the skirt, not on the shoulder, (to avoid any problems with failure to seat properly) we have designed this tube so that the shoulder may not be flush with the muzzle, insuring a proper seat in all guns. This is because any particular gun may vary.

Q. What are the drawbacks of porting?

A. Some of the more commonly cited drawbacks of porting include greater noise level (especially if you hunt in a blind or in close proximity to other hunters) and increased night flash (this is something that is of concern to police & military personnel). Porting can make the tube much less efficient if you're using high velocity shells. It can also create a higher degree of vibration in the tube and make the tube less sturdy.

Q. What is your recommendations for steel shot for ducks and geese over decoys and pass shooting @ 40 yards or less. (I am not a sky buster.) Also, you certainly must have done some work with "the Supreme ", using lead on turkeys at the same distances. I am specifically interested in the shot sizes, types and manufacturer of the shells you found did the best on average for you.

A. First, let me say that you are indeed wise to limit your shots with steel to 40 yards. The "out-to" distance part of your question is the problem here, because that could mean shooting at a bird anywhere from 1 yard away (we have actually encountered this particular problem with customers hunting snow geese in Canada) out to the extreme 40 yards. Also, it is no cop-out to tell you, as I'm sure you already know,that NO two individual gun-choke combos will necessarily "like" the same loads. So, generally, we recommend that you take a little time and pattern your combo with your choice of loads at the ranges at which you'll be shooting to find what works best for you. When you hunt, then we recommend that you range your blind or other shooting position and decoys as much as possible, with yard markers if possible, so you take your game shots within your "kill zone". Depending on the size of the bird, you want a load that'll throw a particular size of steel shot 100% within a 25-35" circle at your kill zone yardage, and maybe within a little smaller diameter for turkey.

For Ducks and Geese: Use standard velocity steel-loaded 3" shells, Federal, Remington, Winchester, they will probably all perform pretty much the same with the Wad Wizard. For normal-sized ducks go with #BB; smaller ducks (e.g., teal) use #2 up to and including the bigger ducks; Canada Geese, use T's or bigger, up to F's, if legal where you hunt. They should drop dead if you hit them within your pattern. For really close-in shots and/or if you find that you're "shooting them up" too much, you can go to the lighter 2 3/4" loads of the same sized shot. I think that you will be very happy with these recommendations, as simple as they seem.

For Turkey: Try to set up so you'll shoot them at 20-30 yards. Get a set of those removable rifle sights that clamp onto your ventilated rib and shoot your load to center your pattern. For lead loads, use the Wad Wizard with Federal 3" Turkey loads (I like their wad) with #4, 5 or 6 shot, it doesn't really matter the size. They all are more than you need. In the "olden days" down in eastern North Carolina my grandpa (who was born in 1867) very reliably killed many turkeys with red paper 2 3/4" 12 gauge Super-X #6's and a single barrel shotgun. That being said, you have to know your game, your probable shooting "kill zone" yardage, your gun and your load. Then, if you shoot well and are lucky (you have to provide your shooting skill and your own luck), you'll do OK.

Q. What is the Wad Wizard considered, for example full, mod or imp? I have a Benelli SBE and hunt geese with shots 20-40 yds max. Is this the choke I am looking for?

A. The Wad Wizard is NOT a conventional constriction choke tube. This tube has virtually no constriction and is basically bore diameter of the gun it is intended to screw into. If you had to put a conventional term to it, it would be considered a full choke. But, remember patterns can be varied depending on the shot size, shell length, velocity, etc...

Q. There is a lot of talk that some chokes don't like 2 piece wads like Winchester uses. How will the SWAT12 choke tube work with these wads and shells? Also, how does it pattern the 1550fps steel compared to the slower stuff. Many of the aftermarket chokes struggle to pattern the faster loads.

A. Our product does better with some wads than others with steel shot shells. In steel shot shells all wads are about the same. It's not to say that you can't use this type of shell, you'll most likely see a difference in performance. We always recommend that you experiment to see what works best for your gun and shooting situation. You may find that the higher velocity gives you a wider pattern. One of the reasons we worked so hard to perfect a wad-retarding tube that does not require ports is to obtain top performance from high-velocity loads. Porting tends to lower velocity and reduce the effectiveness of such loads. Our customers absolutely love our SWAT12 tubes. You'll never know until you screw one into the end of your gun!

Q. Is the Wad Wizard what used to be the "PM" choke tube? Just curious.

A. Our new "generation" of tubes will incorporate the same patented technology of the previous tubes you mentioned, but we've made significant improvements in the quality and design of our new line. You'll find the materials and workmanship, compared to the previous tubes, have significant improvements, as well.